Whether you call it bindii, bindi weed or bindi-eye, this prickly-seeded little weed is currently causing big problems in Pine River Shire, Brisbane.
People are keen to control it, so they can sit or walk barefoot on their lawns. Fair enough, but people seem less willing to hear what bindii means in terms of good gardening.
Bindii, Soliva sessilis, is a common lawn weed. It’s an annual flat weed, that is, a low-growing, ground hugging plant. They germinate as seed during the start of the cool seasons, flower in late winter to spring, and set lots of small, burred seed. Most people are picking them out of their feet when they realise it’s been growing in their garden for ages…
Bindii says “Thanks!”
If bindii is in your lawn, it’s telling you that:
- Your soil is compacted, and needs aerating;
- Your soil is acidic, and needs sweetening;
- Your turf is starved, and needs feeding;
- You’re mowing your lawn too low;
- Get your lawn into shape
Space out these tasks – never, ever feed and weed turf at the same time – it’s counterproductive, no matter how alluring chemical company advertising is.
When is the ideal time to start controlling bindii? In Queensland you can start between May and August; in NSW start in early September.
Raise the height of cut. Most mowers can be adjusted to cut grass on at least a high or low setting. Shaved turf develops bald patches, inviting weed invasion. Turf cut high naturally smothers many lawn weeds.
Mix 2 tablespoonfuls of iron sulphate, (commonly sold at hardware stores & garden centres) into 4.5 litres of water. Use a watering can and rose to sprinkle the solution over the bindii, ensuring it’s foliage is wetted. Promptly wash any splashes off paths, paving or plants with clean water.
Iron sulphate burns foliage and exhausts plants. It is most effective on broad-leaved annual weeds (aka flatweeds). Since they do not have large energy store (like a taproot or bulb) they can be killed in one or two applications.
My grandfather used lawn sand, a different home made herbicide, to control perennial flat-leaved weeds like dandelion and cat’s ear. That is discussed in a different blog.
After the iron sulphate solution has dried, it’s time to aerate your lawn. Use a garden fork, or hire an aerator. Aeration helps rain and air to get into the soil, helping your turf to develop a stronger, healthier root system.
Sprinkle one handful of dolomite per square metre. This sweetens acidic soil and replenishes its calcium and magnesium, invigorating turf and helping it to smother weeds. Both minerals are water soluble and they are leached from soils by rainfall and irrigation. Calcium generally strengthens plant tissue and enhances metabolic processes, both of which counter disease. Magnesium is used to manufacture chlorophyll which helps to convert sunlight into energy.
Sprinkle one handful of certified organic poultry manure or, better still, blended manure such as Rooster Booster, per square metre. This feeds soil micro-organisms, and helps replenish nutrient deficiencies whilst stimulating robust turf growth.
Mark W. of Gympie read this advice and replied:
“Thanks for the article Jerry, I have attached a picture of some prickles we get at Gympie (Qld) and I was wondering if they are in the same class of weeds. They come up every year and I spend hours digging them out but feel I am fighting a losing battle”.
Answer: Khaki weed (Alternanthera pungens) is a perennial weed from Central and South America. Actively growing in warm, moist conditions, this weed is spreading across northern Australia and southwards along the east coast.
It is adapted to rapidly colonise disturbed ground and prefers a sunny habitat, places like footpaths, roadsides, pasture and lawns (technically this is a ‘ruderal’ plant). In drought, a juicy tap root sustains the plant while the shoots die back, and they resprout from this root after rain. Seeds are prickly and are spread by animals, on shoes and by clothing.
I wouldn’t use iron sulphate. This compound works best on broad-leaved annuals (flatweeds), not perennials. Such annuals lack a good store of energy, so killing their foliage can have a big impact. Khaki weed leaves are broad, but the root stores so much energy they can recover and continue growing. You’d need to repeatedly apply iron sulphate to exhaust it, and that would acidify soil, which would then favour most other lawn weeds over turf, and the cost spent treating weeds rises.
Instead, I would focus on cultural controls. They take longer, but you engineer things in favour of weed-free turf. Khaki weed prefers good sunshine, so the higher you cut your lawn, the more it gets shaded out.
Adjust the soil pH and feed your turf and you’ll find the vigorous growth will suppress weeds. Clover, another perennial weed, is weakened by nitrogen. In my experience at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Sydney, by improving our horticultural care of turf we eliminated many pernicious weeds without using even organic herbicides. Turf also became more resistant to wear and tear and this significantly reduced the cost of returfing.
Cultural controls lead to success
Long term control of bindii means consistently improving your lawn care. So repeat this three week programme in autumn and spring.
Most people just want to know about the quick fix bindii control. My grandad’s iron-based remedy, over a hundred years old, kills bindii in 24 hours, and most people leave it at that. But bindii seed remains viable in the soil for many years to germinate in bare patches. Repeated applications of iron sulphate in itself isn’t the answer, because it acidifies the soil, and a low soil pH favours bindii.
The worst mistake is to buy the popular ‘weed & feed’ chemicals. The herbicides they use are dangerous and they’re unpredictable. Developed for use in a cool temperate climate, these highly volatile poisons rapidly evaporate when temperatures exceed 21˚C. Poisonous vapour is easily wafted by breezes to damage plants – often in your neighbour’s garden. And residues continue evaporating from sprayed areas, poisoning for longer than you’d expect – lawns become toxic hazards for kids, pets and wildlife.
Iron sulphate solution is not volatile. As it breaks down it releases iron, a tonic for plants. It is not as cheap as it was one hundred years ago, so don’t use this remedy for a park or a paddock: this remedy is best for a domestic lawn.
If you have a park, use the other cultural controls: feed the soil, raise the height of cut and manage soil pH. That’s what the turfculture team at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Sydney did when I was managing the gardens. It significantly cleaned turf of weeds, renewed the wear and tear of the turf, and avoided spraying persistent pesticides.
I expect that gardeners and councils all around SE Qld are spraying their abused turfed areas with pesticides right now.
What are your weeds telling you?
20 Comments Add yours
Thank you for your article … hopefully I can eradicate my bindii using iron sulphate. Should I apply something afterwards to assist with reducing the acidification re -“Repeated applications of iron sulphate in itself isn’t the answer, because it gradually acidifies the soil, favouring bindii” many thanks Adam
The acidification from each application lasts a matter of weeks only, it leaches, but a good organic gardener would do a pH test of the lawn in autumn and keep the soil around pH 6.5 – 7 by using dolomite.
Hi Jerry, will this work once the prickles are out? The house we’re moving to in a few weeks is infested with bindi and I’m hoping this will work. Thanks
As with all weed control, it is most effective before they set seed. Control bindii in the cool seasons.
Hi Jerry, I have a bush block were this is bindi invading from the ‘nature strip’ area and it has now infested the floodway area which is very damp all the time. Will iron sulphate be ok to use near the natives growing in this area – melaleuca quinquenervia, lomandra hystrix, ferns knotweed, and other assorted natives?
Sure, but only as a quick fix. Improve the horticultural environment for a sustained solution – as explained in this post.
Have sheep is iron sulphate ok to use in paddock with livestock
It’s pretty expensive, so I don’t recommended it for broad-acre use. I don’t think it is a safety risk, however, please first check with an agricultural vet. I don’t want sick sheep on my conscience, OK? 🙂
A very interesting read thankyou Jerry. Especially about the weed n feed spray.
It’s actually illegal to apply a pesticide other than at the recommended rate, and the method of application guarantees the recommended rate cannot be applied. Isn’t that curious?
You have been my saviour regarding gardening up here in Qld. I’m a keen gardener from Victoria, now settled here. I have the time to enjoy my garden in my later years, and you’ve already taught me lots about gardening in the sub tropics, I now live in Burua near Gladstone and am building a garden from a lawn, from scratch, using cuttings and local plants that thrive in this climate. The long growing season is really satisfying. Bindii is my next problem to tackle. I’ve killed lots of areas in what was a nice lawn…… now I’m repairing it, and the Bindii seeds are regerminating. I’m going to use the Iron sulphate and dolomite idea. I do cut my lawns high, as I like the spongy feeling of walking barefoot on the lawn. I have already fed the lawns with rooster booster, and the new seeds of grass I have sewn have gerninated with the lovely rain we’ve just had.
Happy gardening, and thank you so much for sharing your passion with us all
Thank you for your kind comments, they are much appreciated.
Following your guide re bindis. Much thanks. If I was to re-seed some areas of grass I’m wondering which week in this process would be best to do it?
Timing depends on the grass type used: they are either warm season or cool season.
Hi Jerry, thanks for this great info. I’m trying to adapt it to our 9 acre rural bindii lawn. In large areas there’s more bindii than grass. I’ve convinced the lawn mower to mow higher – step one! The clay soil is very compacted, is there a way to aerate large areas efficiently? And would lawn seed best be applied with dolomite, or after adding manure?
You can hire a corer and apply gypsum. Lawn seed is inappropriate for a recreational surface.
thanks for this information. I would like to instigate this – but sadly I cannot lift the level of our living mowers – the wombats – they eat the grass down every night to a couple of millimetres across the whole of our cleared 5 acres – we never have to use a mechanical mower he he
Context is everything. It’s not written for a wildlife park. Nor do I imply or suggest you convert acreage into a suburban lawn… 🙂
Hello Jerry, Is it a good idea to lawn seed with the dolomite? Thanks so much for your time and experience, we need more people like you.
Dolomite is a soil conditioner. All soil conditioners must be applied at least 3 or 4 weeks prior to sowing.